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Serrure.jpg

SERENDIPITY

July 13, 2021

Some people are born chineurs, others don’t particularly relish haggling over somebody else’s “treasures.” I guess we fall into that second category. While we enjoy browsing a good brocante, and we do make occasional purchases, we rarely wear the seller’s hat. Truth be told: in all our years in California, we set up only one garage sale, a couple of weeks before packing our container and leaving for France.

Such treasures can be found at a typical vide-grenier

Such treasures can be found at a typical vide-grenier

Two years after moving into our renovated home, it became apparent that our garage was still full of “treasures.” If we had any hope of ever parking a car in there, we needed to sign up for a vide-grenier: it’s the French equivalent of a garage sale, except that they are organized by the city on specific dates. A designated area, be it a square or a street, is closed to traffic for the day; you pay a small fee to rent your space; you haul your stuff and set up your booth; and you spend the day in the company of other sellers who, like you, dearly hope to drive home an empty vehicle at the end of the event.

Perfect timing!

Perfect timing!

Gourdon scheduled their yearly vide-grenier in mid-June and that worked perfectly for us. I paid my ten euros to reserve five linear meters and, on a bright and early Sunday morning, we drove two filled cars and a trailer to town. Our designated area was on the place de la Poste, a good luck/bad luck situation. I knew we would be standing in full sun all day long and the forecast was a smoldering 95ºF (we did have a tent for shade.) On the other hand, our space was right next to the mail slots and the distributeur automatique: at least, we could count on some people waiting in line by our table and strolling with cash in their pocket!

Our booth in front of the Post Office

Our booth in front of the Post Office

Our assortment of wares was predictably eclectic as we displayed many decor items from the US that were in excellent condition and a lot of very old objects that we had pulled from my grandparent’s house before the demolition. They included a vast selection of rusty tools, a rickety homemade crib on wheels, a couple of andirons from the fireplace, a large chipped confit pot, Sarreguemines dishes, a set of wooden skittles and balls, an old-style license plate…The most popular items turned out to be the most unusual ones: my grandfather’s copper tanks that he strapped on his back to spray the vineyards were bought by someone who planned to convert them into beehives. Two graduated enamel jugs that were originally used for enemas also garnered a lot of attention and chuckles: they routinely get upcycled as garden planters to hang on walls. Interesting conversation pieces, if you ask me!

Our armoire doors

Our armoire doors

Business was brisk in the morning but died around noon when people left for lunch and didn’t return because of the oppressive heat. Everybody was ready to call it a day by 4:30 pm when Bernard, a family friend, stopped by to say hello. He, too, was starting to pack up his stuff when he commented on our wooden armoire doors and expressed interest. In my grandparents’ house, they were hung between the fireplace and the stone sink; they covered a recessed area in the stone wall that was lined with wooden shelves and served as a cupboard. Seven-and-a-half feet tall, darkly stained with brou de noix, these imposing doors concealed my own version of Ali Baba’s cavern: there was the cast-iron Dutch oven that Grandma used to make her fantastic pommes de terre sarladaises; the cloth napkins we used everyday and the good dishes reserved for Sundays; a round plastic box full of thread, needles, and notions; a square wooden box that held her enormous collection of buttons of all shapes and colors; a rectangular metal tin (Chamonix orange!) where she stored chocolate bars and petits beurre; a bag of hard candies, the little pink minty coins that she (and I) loved so much. If I had a cut or a scratch, Grandma would reach for the bottle of eau-de-vie in the cupboard and used it to disinfect the wound. It stung but smelled much better than rubbing alcohol! And there was a strange, leathery, wrinkled pear confined in the bottle, bathing in the clear liquid. It was magical.

The cupboard without its doors

The cupboard without its doors

We pulled the armoire doors off the wall prior to the house demolition/renovation. I could not imagine parting with them when they bore the invisible fingerprints of Grandma and my great-grandmother Françonette. Alas, after they languished in the garage for three years, we still hadn’t found the appropriate spot for them nor figured out a creative way to use them. I was sad to let them go. When Bernard offered to purchase them, my heart skipped a beat.

Bernard’s house, a former convent

Bernard’s house, a former convent

You see, there is an intriguing connection between my great-grandmother and Bernard: he lives in the house where she learned to read! It was built in the 16th century on church property that also included the (still standing) church of Payrignac and the (now privately owned) rectory: it was a convent until 1920. Around 1865, Françonette was lucky enough to get instructed by the nuns. At that time, elementary school was not compulsory in France and children in rural areas only spoke patois. Understanding French and knowing how to read the language was a rare accomplishment, especially for a peasant girl. My aunt was only ten years old when Françonette died but she still remembers her grandmother reading the only book she ever owned: her missal.

The doors in their new home

The doors in their new home

Bernard wanted to show us where he would display the doors and invited us for drinks the next evening. It was the first time I set foot inside his house and I was truly excited to discover the place where Françonette learned her ABCs. From the garden area in the back, we entered a large room downstairs equipped with three fireplaces and a bread oven: the nuns’ kitchen. From there, he guided us toward a wide stone staircase. Three steps led to a landing and an area rug: to the right, a wide sink carved into the stone used by the nuns for their morning ablutions; to the left, steep stairs leading to a very large public room where classes took place. Right in front of us, a recessed area set in the thick stone wall –presumably a linen closet– was now partially hidden by our wooden doors. The stars had aligned: they looked perfect; they were meant to be there; change and continuity.

We returned to the garden and raised a glass of champagne. I think mémé Françonette smiled and winked at us.

Mémé Françonette

Mémé Françonette

Vocabulary
Le chineur: 
bargain hunter
La brocante: flea market
Le vide-grenier: public garage sale 
Le distributeur automatique: teller machine
Le brou de noix: stain extracted from the green outer husks of walnuts
Le petit beurre: a plain rectangular cookie popularized by LU
L’eau de vie: (f) high-proof alcohol usually drank after coffee
Le patois: local dialect

Thinking about heading out to Paris? My book is perfect to help you plan your trip. Or to reminisce if you can’t cross the pond. Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Notre-Dame stamp!

Thinking about heading out to Paris? My book is perfect to help you plan your trip. Or to reminisce if you can’t cross the pond. Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Notre-Dame stamp!

In Roots Tags France, Rural France, Brocante, Vide-grenier, Treasures, Furniture, Armoire, Doors, Old houses
5 Comments
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LAUNDRY DAY IN BURANO

April 27, 2021

True to its reputation, April unfolded in a perfectly predictable way: completely unpredictable. Everybody knows the old French saying: En avril, ne te découvre pas d’un fil. All month long, the weather was all over the map. We experienced temperatures high enough to fool us into thinking that July had arrived. We were stunned by a freaky freezing episode that lasted three full nights and pretty much wiped out vineyards and orchards all over France. In between those two extremes, we endured many days of la grisaille where a grey veil seems to envelop the whole countryside and everything looks desaturated, dormant, and dull.

Venetian lagoon, October 2019

Venetian lagoon, October 2019

Contrary to public perception la grisaille is not reserved to Paris or Limoges, a city that has been (affectionately?) dubbed France’s chamber pot… But, let’s face it, some places manage to impress even under the dreariest of conditions. Burano is one of them. When I need color in my day, I head out to my photo archives and zero in on October 2019.  

Arriving in Burano

Arriving in Burano

We left Venice on a Sunday morning and hopped on the vaporetto at Fondamente Nuove. The sun was having the hardest time piercing through the ominous clouds hanging over the lagoon. The air was cool and salty and misty: I was glad to wear a windbreaker and couldn’t help leaning outside on the small deck to fill my eyes with the shimmering beauty of the water. The Campanile di San Marco slowly disappeared from the horizon. After a 45-minute ride, we reached the island of Burano. As we approached the embarcadero, dark nuages above us seemed ready to burst and I feared the worst.

The not-so-grand canal in Burano

The not-so-grand canal in Burano

Like everybody else on the waterbus, we disembarked and followed a very narrow street lined with shops selling beautiful lace and not too tacky souvenirs. It led to a small canal and that’s when my eyes popped up. The juxtaposition of colors on the facades looked like the product of an exuberant child let loose with tubes of acrylic paint. 

Red and green: Christmassy?

Red and green: Christmassy?

And some Pepto-Bismol pink, too

And some Pepto-Bismol pink, too

Leaving the “main” street behind, I ducked into narrow alleys leading to small squares where my colorful discoveries continued. Away from stores, restaurants, and ice cream shops, the vivid walls of local fishermen’s homes were unfolding like an endless rainbow. 

Fun, fun, fun

Fun, fun, fun

Painting the walls of these row houses in different colors is a way to define the boundaries of each home. Supposedly, the bright colors help fishermen find their own house during foggy weather (or perhaps after a few shots of grappa?) 

A touch more muted

A touch more muted

And some pastels

And some pastels

Burano still feels like a true fisherman’s island: although the population of the island is decreasing, 450 fishermen are still active members of a cooperative. The bulk of their catch is sold at the Rialto fish market in Venice. 

These houses sit on a tiny strip of land between the sea and the canal

These houses sit on a tiny strip of land between the sea and the canal

Burano could not have become famous for its lace without the fishermen’s wives: their skills in making and repairing fishing nets easily translated into lacemaking. In the 15thand 16thcenturies, Burano lace was highly prized all over Europe. Then King Louis XIV ordered an import ban on Burano lace and set up la Manufacture Royale des dentelles françaises.     

Not just tablecloths and napkins, my friends!

Not just tablecloths and napkins, my friends!

It was quite apparent that the locals had more faith in their weather than I did. While I spent the whole day expecting rain, they thought it was safe to hang their laundry to dry. Many did just that.

How many bath towels? How many people?

How many bath towels? How many people?

Perhaps Sunday is indeed laundry day in Burano. Clotheslines with pulleys were set up in front of second-story windows or in diminutive backyards. Some even stretched across small squares, from one house to the other.

Sharing a line with the neighbor across the square

Sharing a line with the neighbor across the square

Could it double as a volley ball court?

Could it double as a volley ball court?

Each drying load had a story to tell about the men, women, and children who used those clothes: pants and shirts, sheets and towels. It was also a reminder that our convenient clothes dryers are still hard to find (and fit) in most European cities.

Long pants and short jeans

Long pants and short jeans

Who wants to count socks?

Who wants to count socks?

I meandered in and out of tiny streets where hanging clothes and the occasional bicycle were the only signs of life. Perhaps it was nap time for the fishermen; perhaps there was a good soccer game on TV. 

Staking my territory

Staking my territory

I like that faded blue

I like that faded blue

I finally returned to the main square and its leaning bell tower. Back to civilization, the cafés, and the shops. I saw a lot of clothes there too, but they were hanging on mannequins, behind the shop windows. Waiting for new stories to be written. 

Lovely Burano even when the paint gets washed out by the salty air and the Acqua Alta

Lovely Burano even when the paint gets washed out by the salty air and the Acqua Alta

Vocabulary
En avril, ne te découvre pas d’un fil:
In April, do not take off one thread (of your clothing)
La grisaille: grey skies
Le nuage: cloud
La dentelle: lace

Heading to Paris instead of Burano? My book is perfect to help you plan your trip. Or to reminisce when you can’t cross the pond… Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Notre-Dame stamp!

Heading to Paris instead of Burano? My book is perfect to help you plan your trip. Or to reminisce when you can’t cross the pond… Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Notre-Dame stamp!

In Haunts, Eye Candy Tags Burano, Venice, Italy, Colored houses, Laundry
4 Comments
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PARIS AU RALENTI-CONTINUED

March 30, 2021

This intrepid reporter is following up on her initial post with a fresh batch of observations and photos collected during her recent trip to Paris. The first part of Paris au ralenti probably gave you the impression that Paris had dramatically changed since the pandemic, and not in a good way: an ebullient, festive city turned into a mournful, quiet one. That’s only partially true. I won’t deny there were a few poignant moments where it was hard to shake the feeling of loneliness but they were vastly outnumbered by the numerous “proofs of life” shown by my fellow Parisians and by the stunning examples of everlasting beauty the city is famous for. To make it even better, I consistently found Parisians to be warm, chatty, and helpful! Follow along and you’ll see that, in spite of it all, Paris is always a good idea.

Versailles might be closed but, if you board the right RER C, a métro ticket is all it takes to be transported inside the Hall of Mirrors.

Versailles might be closed but, if you board the right RER C, a métro ticket is all it takes to be transported inside the Hall of Mirrors.

On our first day out, I decided to hang out in the 16th arrondissement. Why, oh why, would I do such a thing? Two reasons. Except for the Trocadéro-Guimet-Palais de Tokyo triangle and Musée Marmottan, that part of the city is shunned by visitors. I figured this affluent and mostly residential area would look reasonably “normal” and I could observe some Parisians in their natural habitat… Also, I was interested in walking in Hector Guimard’s footsteps but I’ll save that for another post.

Five muscular atlantes are needed to support a stone balcony on rue Jasmin

Five muscular atlantes are needed to support a stone balcony on rue Jasmin

As expected, the streets in the 16th were very clean and the elegant apartment buildings were well-kept. Except for a few Space Invaders gone astray, we didn’t see any street art but filled our eyes with beautiful architectural elements of diverse styles.

Ceramic decor by Gentil & Bourdet on rue Boileau (1906)

Ceramic decor by Gentil & Bourdet on rue Boileau (1906)

Although cafés and restaurants were closed everywhere in Paris, this neighborhood felt lively in its own usual way (yes, it is more sedate than Barbès or Belleville.) Nannies were watching over boisterous children playing in the parks. Impeccably dressed older women were shopping for groceries at Monoprix or dropping off their dry cleaning at the pressing. A large contingent of masked middle-schoolers exited lycée Jean-Baptiste Say, jumped on their scooters, and headed home for lunch. None of them played ball against the wall of the Eglise d’Auteuil, a testimony to their superior reading skills and good manners.

Défense de jouer à la balle contre le mur. Not as common as Défense d’afficher.

Défense de jouer à la balle contre le mur. Not as common as Défense d’afficher.

Life goes on in other parts of Paris, too. Would you believe that people still buy pastries?

You can still satisfy your chou craving at Odette

You can still satisfy your chou craving at Odette

Always a line at Kitsuné at Palais Royal

Always a line at Kitsuné at Palais Royal

Early afternoon, rue Montorgeuil was not encumbered by tourists snapping photos of Le Rocher de Cancale: it was busy with locals shopping for meat, fish, and produce or picking up dessert for their evening meal. I suspect that all the other streets devoted to food shopping (rues Cler, Cadet, de Lévis, etc.) are equally patronized.

Picking up a baba au rhum, perhaps? It’s Stohrer’s specialty.

Picking up a baba au rhum, perhaps? It’s Stohrer’s specialty.

A few observations regarding the food scene. Many restaurants have switched to the vente à emporter or livraison models to stay in business. What struck me was the variety and quality of the food we could choose from. MacDo and Domino have their fans but ethnic and traditional French restaurants are offering a fantastic selection of to-go dishes that echoes what they would serve in their dining rooms. We got a delivery from La Ferrandaise: the menu included pork cheeks with blond lentils, low-temperature cooked veal breast with carrots, organic chicken with morels, and more delicious creations. You may have to forgo the restaurant atmosphere but you will get interesting food! I also really like that many restaurants still want to showcase their dining room as an inviting place either by populating the seats with stuffed animals (like Les Deux Magots in my previous post) or by setting up their tables just as if they could welcome you tout de suite. A nice change from the stacked Gatti chairs.

Would you care for some Champagne before your meal? At Le Pré aux Clercs.

Would you care for some Champagne before your meal? At Le Pré aux Clercs.

Even when the tables are not set, it’s a delight to gaze at some of the restaurant facades.

So much history at Bouillon Racine, founded by the same Chartier family on rue du Faubourg-Montmartre.

So much history at Bouillon Racine, founded by the same Chartier family on rue du Faubourg-Montmartre.

Paris remains a gigantic chantier: construction is ever-present, everywhere you look. The Olympic Games deadline is looming large! In addition to the ongoing reconstruction of Notre-Dame, the Eiffel Tower is getting a new paint job.

Makeover time! La Grande Dame will sport her yellow-brown color again.

Makeover time! La Grande Dame will sport her yellow-brown color again.

Fountain Medici in the Luxembourg gardens was emptied out; the renovation of the statues, basin, and water supply continues through June 2021.

Now we know how deep it is

Now we know how deep it is

The new Samaritaine complex is ready for its close-up but the new Louis Vuitton headquarters across the street are wrapped in scaffolding.

The Rivoli façade of la Samaritaine got more than a face lift! The Art Nouveau façade on rue de la Monnaie and original façade on quai du Louvre were nicely restored.

The Rivoli façade of la Samaritaine got more than a face lift! The Art Nouveau façade on rue de la Monnaie and original façade on quai du Louvre were nicely restored.

There is a running (pun intended) joke that Parisians “discovered” the virtues of sports as soon as they were told to remain inside their apartments. Gyms are currently closed: parks and gardens are the new locations to watch bodies squeezed into Spandex: fitness, running, Tai Chi… Apparently, boxing has many devotees, especially among women: one particular instructor was spotted at Luxembourg on Thursday and at Palais Royal on Friday. Have gloves, will travel.

Tai Chi in the gardens: low and slow.

Tai Chi in the gardens: low and slow.

Fitness class at Palais Royal. Note to self: head out to Kitsuné after working out….

Fitness class at Palais Royal. Note to self: head out to Kitsuné after working out….

If climbing is your thing, the underside of pont de Grenelle on Ile des Cygnes has been set up as a climbing wall. You can stare at the Statue of Liberty while pulling yourself up. Or, you could head out to the right bank near Pont d’Arcole and ride a stationary bike while watching the barges float by.

Who wouldn’t pick this view instead of riding a Peloton in their living room?

Who wouldn’t pick this view instead of riding a Peloton in their living room?

Of course, Parisians are also spending quality time outdoors with their four-legged companions.

Meet and greet on Ile des Cygnes

Meet and greet on Ile des Cygnes

Cinemas may be closed but film production has resumed and we noticed crews at several locations. No Emily or Lupin sighting, though.

Stumbled upon the set of Les passagers de la nuit starring Charlotte Gainsbourg. No Charlotte sighting either…

Stumbled upon the set of Les passagers de la nuit starring Charlotte Gainsbourg. No Charlotte sighting either…

And if you need further evidence that life in Paris is quasi-normal, rest assured: you can still enjoy a good street demonstration, and not just during the weekend.

Théâtre Odéon is occupied by actors and stagehands protesting the shutdown of cultural venues. We saw them every afternoon, playing and singing Bella Ciao.

Théâtre Odéon is occupied by actors and stagehands protesting the shutdown of cultural venues. We saw them every afternoon, playing and singing Bella Ciao.

Whether it’s March or July, a prudent traveler always carries an umbrella and keeps a Plan B in mind in case it rains. Covered passages and galleries are open; they provide lovely sights and one-of-a-kind shopping experiences.

Mosaic floor at galerie Vivienne. You did recognize it, didn’t you?

Mosaic floor at galerie Vivienne. You did recognize it, didn’t you?

Churches were open as well. We popped into Saint-Germain-des-Prés right after a funeral; the restoration work is finished and the colors are stunning. That same afternoon, the rain and wind were so violent that we took refuge in Saint-Sulpice. During a funeral. We sat down by one of the side chapels. Saint-Sulpice is huge (the second largest church in Paris after Notre-Dame) and social distancing was in effect, along with masking and hand sanitizer. It felt a bit odd –and oddly comforting– to share this moment and space with a large group of strangers. As Aristotle said: “man is by nature a social animal.”

Come to the light! Stained glass projection at Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

Come to the light! Stained glass projection at Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

In general, gardens seemed a bit less populated than usual but the weather was not necessarily encouraging people to linger on a chair with a good book. Tulips were not out yet but the tulip trees at Palais Royal had put on their seasonal show in beautiful shades of pink.

Blooms at Palais Royal

Blooms at Palais Royal

Whatever the season, gazing at floral shops is always a treat. Peculiar buildings, whimsical decorative touches, bouquets of flowers in galvanized buckets, potted plants spilling over the sidewalk… every shop tells a little story.

When the shop is as pretty as the flowers. Floranges on rue Michel-Ange.

When the shop is as pretty as the flowers. Floranges on rue Michel-Ange.

Inside marché Saint-Germain, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France creates floral arrangements at maison Beaufrère.

Inside marché Saint-Germain, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France creates floral arrangements at maison Beaufrère.

Les Fleurs du Mal: what a great prop! Stanislas Draber on rue Racine offers flowers and poetry.

Les Fleurs du Mal: what a great prop! Stanislas Draber on rue Racine offers flowers and poetry.

If all you can do is stroll, Paris might be the most exciting place to do it. Where else can you walk all day long and be treated to beautiful architectural details right and left?

130 rue Réaumur. It’s the main street in the old Sentier neighborhood, the former home of printing presses and sewing machines. Most of the imposing buildings have especially high ceilings on the lower floors where industrial equipment was set up.

130 rue Réaumur. It’s the main street in the old Sentier neighborhood, the former home of printing presses and sewing machines. Most of the imposing buildings have especially high ceilings on the lower floors where industrial equipment was set up.

Fantastic doors and caryatides abound in Paris. These two ladies on rue Monsieur le Prince are called La Studieuse and La Libertine. Which is which?

Fantastic doors and caryatides abound in Paris. These two ladies on rue Monsieur le Prince are called La Studieuse and La Libertine. Which is which?

I often catch great reflections of the Palais Royal gardens in the shop windows under the Montpensier arcades.

I often catch great reflections of the Palais Royal gardens in the shop windows under the Montpensier arcades.

In the mood for poetry? Rimbaud’s Le Bateau Ivre unfolds on a wall at rue Férou.

In the mood for poetry? Rimbaud’s Le Bateau Ivre unfolds on a wall at rue Férou.

One of my (not so) guilty pleasures is to wait for a large porte cochère to open up, sneak inside, in hope of discovering a secret courtyard.

Score!

Score!

Sometimes, it’s “just” a worn-out staircase, a heavy wood beam, and an ornate handrail.

Sometimes, it’s “just” a worn-out staircase, a heavy wood beam, and an ornate handrail.

I think one of my next photography projects should be to search for lovely ceramic and mosaic details on Parisian buildings. That will keep me occupied for a while!

Mosaic at Relais Odéon

Mosaic at Relais Odéon

And, of course, there is also street art and art-in-the-street: even familiar places can be “new to you” on repeat visits.

There is always a photo expo hanging on the fences of the Luxembourg garden. If you can’t come to art, art will come to you.

There is always a photo expo hanging on the fences of the Luxembourg garden. If you can’t come to art, art will come to you.

Be masked and merry!

Be masked and merry!

Each evening, the curfew required us to be back at the lovely hotel Saint-Paul Rive Gauche by 6 pm. We were not allowed to eat out but, one night, a talented saxophonist serenaded us with jazz tunes around 7:30 pm. I watched him pace the street and play until he disappeared from my sight. I took in the grey zinc and slate rooftops, the carved window pediments, and the forged iron balconies. I caught a fleeting glimpse of someone heading home, bathed in the warm glow of a street lamp. I drew the curtains closed. It had been a good day and Paris was still a good idea.

A room with a view

A room with a view

Vocabulary
Le pressing:
dry cleaners
Le chou à la crème: cream puff
Le baba au rhum: a sponge cake soaked in rum, with whipped cream
La vente à emporter: take-out
La livraison: delivery
Tout de suite: immediately
Le chantier: construction site
La porte cochère: carriage entrance

My book is perfect to help you plan your next trip to Paris. Or to reminisce when you can’t cross the pond… Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Not…

My book is perfect to help you plan your next trip to Paris. Or to reminisce when you can’t cross the pond… Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Notre-Dame stamp!

In Haunts Tags Paris, Covid, Lock down, Architecture, 5th arrondissement, 16th arrondissement, Seine, Palais Royal, Metro, Auteuil, Stohrer, Chartier, Luxembourg, Galerie Vivienne, Saint-Germain, Floral shops, Reaumur, Street art
4 Comments
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PARIS AU RALENTI

March 16, 2021

The trip had been postponed for a year. Despite living in France, I hadn’t set foot in Paris since September 2019. I knew that museums would be closed; cafés and restaurants would not welcome patrons; a 6 pm curfew would still be in place. We decided to go anyway and make the most of it. It was Rick’s birthday after all and it would be a nice change of scenery. The fact that I had been away from Paris for (what seemed to be) an eternity was putting me in a unique position: it would be easier to notice how the city had changed since its pre-pandemic days.

We arrived at Gare d’Austerlitz on a Tuesday at 5:30 pm which qualified as “peak hour” since the curfew started half-an-hour later. I expected platforms and trains to be packed but I was wrong. With no lines at the ticket machines and very few commuters pacing the RER and métro corridors, it felt more like a quiet Sunday morning in Paris before the young set heads out pour bruncher and the 40-years-old carry bouquets on their way to have lunch at their parents’.

Métro-RER corridor between Saint-Michel and Cluny-La Sorbonne

Métro-RER corridor between Saint-Michel and Cluny-La Sorbonne

I know this doesn’t quite jive with what is typically shown in news reports but we never encountered crowds in public transportation during our 5-day stay. Call me crazy but I purposely went through the Châtelet-Les Halles interchange for no other reason but to see how crowded it was. I’ll let you judge for yourselves: here is a time-lapse video where you can (almost) count every commuter using the people movers.

Most of the time, we seemed to be stuck in a time warp: the walls were still plastered with affiches advertising winter vacations in sunny locations or movies and plays that briefly opened last Fall before the second confinement began. Many of the paper posters were tattered, signaling that advertisers had pretty much paused any campaign they had planned since the 4th quarter.

“Our Christmas gift to you: to make you laugh!” Are we laughing yet?

“Our Christmas gift to you: to make you laugh!” Are we laughing yet?

As expected, the closure of cafés and restaurants is the most glaring evidence of the pandemic; probably because they’re huge social hubs, day or night.

No onion soup for me today! To think that Au Pied de Cochon had been open around the clock, every single day, since 1947…

No onion soup for me today! To think that Au Pied de Cochon had been open around the clock, every single day, since 1947…

Au Père Louis on rue de Vaugirard. Even outdoor service is not allowed.

Au Père Louis on rue de Vaugirard. Even outdoor service is not allowed.

Sad sight at Café de Flore.

Sad sight at Café de Flore.

Some, like Les Deux Magots, “pretend” to serve customers.

Les Nounours des Gobelins do get around! Lucky bears…

Les Nounours des Gobelins do get around! Lucky bears…

Many of the smaller eateries shifted to the vente à emporter model, either click-and-collect or delivery by UberEats, Deliveroo, etc.

Le Pré aux Clers offers vin chaud, soups, and to-go meals.

Le Pré aux Clers offers vin chaud, soups, and to-go meals.

Clearly, restaurants have no idea when they might resume operations.

“Nous rouvrirons à l’automne.” Polidor was using the Spring confinement to do some remodeling, expecting to reopen in the Fall. They’re still remodeling.

“Nous rouvrirons à l’automne.” Polidor was using the Spring confinement to do some remodeling, expecting to reopen in the Fall. They’re still remodeling.

A café at marché Saint-Germain is not making any time commitment: dès que possible…

A café at marché Saint-Germain is not making any time commitment: dès que possible…

The “fruit bar” on quai des Grands Augustins has an injunction for all: stay fired up!

The “fruit bar” on quai des Grands Augustins has an injunction for all: stay fired up!

Not being able to sit down at a café for lunch means that more French people eat while they walk (the horror!) or look for a bench in public parks.

No seats left in square Laurent Prache.

No seats left in square Laurent Prache.

Front row seating on place Saint-Germain.

Front row seating on place Saint-Germain.

Window seating at Palais Royal.

Window seating at Palais Royal.

I purchased a couple of Merveilleux on rue du Pont Louis-Philippe and we ate them right on the street, using the top of a shipping pallet as a table.

Undoubtedly, the pallet had been used to build a parklet in front of the now-closed restaurant.

Undoubtedly, the pallet had been used to build a parklet in front of the now-closed restaurant.

Let me tell you, it’s hard to spend six-to-eight solid hours on your feet without the possibility of seating down in front of an espresso or a glass of wine! And it’s a bit tricky to depend on public toilets since cafés and department stores are closed. Whatever you do, do not leave home without loading the (free) Toilet Finder app on your phone: truly a life-saver.

Public restroom on rue du Four. All toilets are automatically cleaned after each user and have hand-sanitizer dispensers on the outside.

Public restroom on rue du Four. All toilets are automatically cleaned after each user and have hand-sanitizer dispensers on the outside.

Speaking of urban furniture… The Wallace fountains work very well, most of the Morris columns advertise plays that theaters can’t show, and it looks like the old newspaper kiosks have all been replaced with their “new-and-improved” models.

Sign of the times at the kiosks: few postcards, many masks.

Sign of the times at the kiosks: few postcards, many masks.

Many other sites are in “sleeping beauty” mode.

Like all movie theaters, the UGC Danton only showed a few films in Summer-early Fall before having to shut down again.

Like all movie theaters, the UGC Danton only showed a few films in Summer-early Fall before having to shut down again.

Notre-Dame will not wake up for several years but the work continues. All the melted scaffolding was removed. Engineers and artisans continue to consolidate walls. There is still debris to evacuate inside the cathedral before restoration and rebuild…

Notre-Dame will not wake up for several years but the work continues. All the melted scaffolding was removed. Engineers and artisans continue to consolidate walls. There is still debris to evacuate inside the cathedral before restoration and rebuilding can start.

The bouquinistes’ lockers didn’t see any daylight while we were there but perhaps they feared rain showers. On the other hand, many of them heavily rely on the tourist trade.

The bouquinistes’ lockers didn’t see any daylight while we were there but perhaps they feared rain showers. On the other hand, many of them heavily rely on the tourist trade.

Car traffic has gone down noticeably: nowadays, you are more likely to get run over by a vélo than a voiture. Even the Seine seems to be taking a break. There are no Bateaux-mouches or Vedettes du Pont-Neuf on the water. Even the Batobus service was suspended at the end of September. They hope to resume service in April (dream on…) The only boats we saw were houseboats moored on the banks and merchandise barges carrying wood, sand, or construction debris.

Esperanza on the Seine.

Esperanza on the Seine.

After staying on the Right Bank for many years, I had booked a hotel in the Latin Quarter for this trip. It was “my” Paris when I was a student in the late 70s-early 80s but the neighborhood had changed a lot over the past 40 years. The rectangle defined by boulevards Saint-Michel, Saint-Germain, Saint-Jacques, and quai Saint-Michel used to be an exciting and culturally vibrant area before the fast-food outlets, kebab joints, overpriced cafés, and souvenir shops turned it into a tourist mecca. It truly had become a zoo.

This time was very, very different. Foreign tourists had no choice but to stay home, and so did most French students after remote-learning became the norm. It was a ghost town. Many of you are quite familiar with that neighborhood and I think you will be shocked when you take this little stroll with me.

An eerily quiet rue de la Huchette. Rue de la Harpe wasn’t any livelier.

An eerily quiet rue de la Huchette. Rue de la Harpe wasn’t any livelier.

Curtain down at Théâtre de la Huchette. Ionesco’s La Cantatrice Chauve and La Leçon had been playing there since 1957, the longest running show without interruption at a single theater.

Curtain down at Théâtre de la Huchette. Ionesco’s La Cantatrice Chauve and La Leçon had been playing there since 1957, the longest running show without interruption at a single theater.

Le Caveau de la Huchette also went dark. After the Liberation of Paris, its caves welcomed jazz greats like Sidney Bechet and Claude Luter. Until the pandemic, it was open every single night.

Le Caveau de la Huchette also went dark. After the Liberation of Paris, its caves welcomed jazz greats like Sidney Bechet and Claude Luter. Until the pandemic, it was open every single night.

 “Souvenirs row” across square Viviani, on rue Lagrange. Speechless.

 “Souvenirs row” across square Viviani, on rue Lagrange. Speechless.

The bookstore was open but when was the last time you could take a pic of Shakespeare and Company without an American tourist photobombing your shot?

The bookstore was open but when was the last time you could take a pic of Shakespeare and Company without an American tourist photobombing your shot?

Last days at Gibert Jeune, an institution for more than a century. For any former Latin Quarter student, this feels like the end of an era. All four stores around place Saint-Michel are closing forever.

Last days at Gibert Jeune, an institution for more than a century. For any former Latin Quarter student, this feels like the end of an era. All four stores around place Saint-Michel are closing forever.

So, yes, Paris feels like a different city at the moment. During the first confinement, mesmerizing photos highlighted the beauty of an empty city. They felt strangely peaceful; time was suspended. My photographs tell a different story; they show a city that’s wounded and is barely convalescing; but it’s also reinventing itself. There is some gloom and some sadness but there is resilience as well. And the beauty is still out there for everyone to see. That’s what I’ll show you in my next post…

Coming soon to a café near you: Gatti chairs and an aperitif en terrace. Can’t wait!

Coming soon to a café near you: Gatti chairs and an aperitif en terrace. Can’t wait!

Vocabulary
Au ralenti:
in slow motion
Pour bruncher: to have brunch
L’affiche: (f) poster
La vente à emporter: take-out
Vin chaud: (hot) mulled wine
Dès que possible: as soon as possible
Gardez la pêche: lit. keep the peach; remain upbeat
Le vélo: bicycle
La voiture: car

In Haunts Tags Paris, Confinement, Lock down, Latin Quarter, Palais Royal, Metro, Saint-Germain, Saint-Michel, Shakespeare and Co., Notre-Dame de Paris, Bouquinistes, Seine, Café culture
6 Comments
Icones américaines

BERNIE TAKES PARIS

January 25, 2021

Who would have thought that a pair of patterned mittens would get more attention than Kamala Harris’s purple coat or Lady Gaga’s voluminous red skirt? As far as the internet goes, Bernie Sanders stole the show at the Inauguration last week and, by now, you have seen countless memes of Bernie in his beige parka, legs and arms crossed, a surgical mask on his face, huge earth-tone mittens covering his hands. I wanted to see how this “grumpy chic” American would blend in on the streets of Paris and I allowed him to photobomb some of my shots of the capital. Here are my 25 photos of Bernie in Paris: follow in his footsteps, try to recognize all the sights, and check your score at the end of the post. Bonne chance!

Second-hand bookstores: where you find things you had no idea you wanted.

Second-hand bookstores: where you find things you had no idea you wanted.

No, I shall not do the happy dance!

No, I shall not do the happy dance!

I want to put money in people’s pockets

I want to put money in people’s pockets

I kept the mittens but the wool socks had to go

I kept the mittens but the wool socks had to go

I thought I made it clear the rocket ship was my first choice

I thought I made it clear the rocket ship was my first choice

Now is the winter of our discontent

Now is the winter of our discontent

The mind is like an umbrella. It’s most useful when open.

The mind is like an umbrella. It’s most useful when open.

Oui, je parle français

Oui, je parle français

Striking a pose for the next cover of GQ

Striking a pose for the next cover of GQ

Feels just like Vermont

Feels just like Vermont

It’s important to gain a higher perspective

It’s important to gain a higher perspective

Lucky find: furniture that complements my color scheme perfectly.

Lucky find: furniture that complements my color scheme perfectly.

Everybody loves a good victory

Everybody loves a good victory

Waiting for Emmanuel. He’s late.

Waiting for Emmanuel. He’s late.

What I enjoy the most about pétanque is the apéro hour

What I enjoy the most about pétanque is the apéro hour

Looking for another comfy chair in the furniture district

Looking for another comfy chair in the furniture district

I can see Montmartre from here (but not Russia)

I can see Montmartre from here (but not Russia)

I’m pretty sure they said I would be the Guardian of the Galaxy

I’m pretty sure they said I would be the Guardian of the Galaxy

New sartorial options? Fine but the mittens have to stay.

New sartorial options? Fine but the mittens have to stay.

Conversation? What is it? A mystery! It’s the art of never seeming bored.

Conversation? What is it? A mystery! It’s the art of never seeming bored.

This might be a tad more exciting than the campaign bus

This might be a tad more exciting than the campaign bus

A gentleman is someone who can play the accordion, but doesn’t.

A gentleman is someone who can play the accordion, but doesn’t.

So many choux à la crème, so little time

So many choux à la crème, so little time

The most instagrammed street in Paris is about to go viral again…

The most instagrammed street in Paris is about to go viral again…

Thanks for indulging me! Now, check your answers.

1 Icones Américaines, Mº Bourse
2 Bouquinistes on quai St-Michel
3 L’Homme en blanc by Jérome Mesnager, passage de la Duée
4 Cour des Arrivées, gare d’Austerlitz
5 La Bouche de la Vérité, fountain on place Jussieu
6 Merry-go-round, parc de la Villette
7 Shakespeare and Company, rue de la Bûcherie
8 Umbrella installation, Cité Berryer; quote by Walter Gropius.
9 Place Fréhel
10 Colonnes de Buren, Palais Royal
11 Pont Saint-Louis
12 Rue Yves Toudic
13 Urban furniture, rue des Grands Degrés
14 Winged Victory, musée du Louvre
15 Grille du Coq entrance gate, palais de l’Elysée, avenue Gabriel
16 Terrace des Feuillants, jardin des Tuileries
17 Former wood workshop, passage Lhomme
18 Crêperie place Saint-Pierre in Montmartre
19 Galerie Vero Dodat
20 Adopte Un Mec, Mº Etienne Marcel
21 Monument à Guy de Maupassant, parc Monceau; quote by Maupassant.
22 Esmeralda, rue du Cloître Notre-Dame
23 Accordion player, between Mº Temple and République; quote by Tom Waits.
24 Odette pastry shop, rue Galande
25 Rue Cremieux

It was a very tough quiz. How did you do?

More than 20 correct answers
Paris has no secret for you. You even pay attention to ephemeral advertising in the métro stations…

Between 15 and 20
Excellent. When travel resumes, you’ll spend all your time comparing pre- and post-Covid Paris.

Between 10 and 15
Not bad at all. While stuck at home, check out some virtual tours of Paris so you can prepare your next trip (my friend Véronique posts fantastic free video tours on YouTube.)

Less than 10
You are so lucky! Paris is still a mystery to you and you have a whole city to discover.

In Haunts Tags France, Paris, Bernie Sanders, Mittens, Memes
2 Comments
Amora glasses

2020 DANS LE RÉTRO

December 29, 2020

Our annus horribilis will soon be over. Although 2020 started full of travel promises (the US! Vietnam! Spain or Italy! Paris!) it petered out very quickly. I haven’t logged so few air or land miles since 1976; I didn’t even spend one day in Paris. In fact, my thirst for travel was only quenched by drinking out of my Amora mustard glasses and checking “Blursday” on my Venice calendar. Not surprisingly the number of travel photos in my camera roll is shockingly slim this year. And yet, I found many fine shots to illustrate that there are gems to be found even during une année merdique. Let’s roll the tape.

January in Cahors. Since our return to France, we’ve become quite familiar with downtown Cahors. It’s the administrative center of the département so we’ve made several trips to the préfecture to solidify Rick’s status as a permanent resident. Our January meeting was the penultimate appointment before he received his carte de séjour. Fifty yards south of the préfecture, the newly renovated covered market welcomes a nice selection of local vendors who offer superb foodstuff. Best of all, the original architecture of the 1865 halle aux grains was beautifully preserved; the interior wooden frame is especially stunning.

La Halle de Cahors

La Halle de Cahors

February in Sarlat. I was Desperately Seeking Ridley in the Dordogne area as Sir Ridley Scott, his actors, and his crew set up shop in the famous medieval town while filming The Last Duel. Our house lies a mere 14 miles from Sarlat but I admit to limiting my visits in the Old Town to the off-season when tourists are away. February is always quiet: most of the art galleries and souvenirs shops are closed and only locals seem to populate the terraces of the cafés to warm up their hands around a cup of chocolat chaud. Nobody straddles Les Trois Oies, the bronze statue standing in the middle of the traditional goose market square, and Le Badaud can leisurely contemplate the empty cobbled market street below.

Statue by Gérard Auliac. Le Badaud sits on a short wall dominating place de la Liberté.

Statue by Gérard Auliac. Le Badaud sits on a short wall dominating place de la Liberté.

March in Eureka. Our yearly stay in California was cut short and I barely managed to take a road trip to Eureka with my friend Andria. As the Executive Chef at the now-shuttered Restaurant 301, her daughter treated us to a special dinner and a stay at the Carter House, a faithful replica of the San Francisco Murphy House that was destroyed in the 1906 fire (Mark Carter found the original blueprints in a Eureka antique store and decided to rebuilt it downtown.) Being the only guests, we had the whole mansion for ourselves! Although Eureka is showing signs of gentrification, the small coastal town remains a study in contrasts: a stone throw from the vacant lots that border the slightly gritty waterfront, one can’t miss the imposing Carson mansion, allegedly the most photographed Victorian structure in the US. With gables, turrets, and gothic elements, the Carson House reminded me of a Hollywood haunted mansion, especially when I captured its reflection in a stained-glass window across the street, on the porch of the Pink Lady, another Queen Anne-style marvel.

A spooky Carson mansion reflected in a parlor window of the Pink Lady.

A spooky Carson mansion reflected in a parlor window of the Pink Lady.

April in Payrignac. Except for essential shopping at the grocery store or pharmacy, the whole month was spent at home or within one kilometer from the house. Of course, Mother Nature inflicted us with perfect weather during the lockdown. Permission slip in hand, our one-hour allotment of exercise time provided me with an opportunity to focus and photograph what I could (re)discover in my immediate surroundings. I walked the same roads and trails that defined my grandmother’s whole universe a hundred years ago when a trip to town was a rare and cherished adventure. Her regular activities included going to school (she passed the Certificat d’Études exam, which was a big deal at the time,) herding sheep, helping her parents at the farm, and carrying the laundry to the lavoir in a wheelbarrow. Chatting with other girls and women while washing clothes was the best way to exchange news and gossip, before Twitter.

Le lavoir du Malpat, one of eleven public wash houses around the village.

Le lavoir du Malpat, one of eleven public wash houses around the village.

May around the farm. Flowers were spectacular during the spring. Mom’s patch of muguet keeps getting larger and we had an early bumper crop; it was pretty much spent by the time La Fête du Muguet rolled around. It’s still traditional to give a sprig of lily of the valley to family and friends for good luck but, on May 1st, floral shops were not yet allowed to open. Unfortunate timing when everybody could have used some good fortune. Fields all around us were blanketed with red coquelicots. As a little girl, I was very fond of poppies and would make it my mission to “help” them bloom: I’d peel off the green buds to unfurl the crumpled petals inside. The flowers were never quite ready for their close up and would shyly reveal their chiffon skirts in shades of light red, pink, or even white if I had rushed them along too much. I still take photos of poppy fields every year. But, this year, the Best of Show Award in the Horticultural category was bestowed to the glycine that graces my cousin’s old house a hundred yards away. Thankfully, it survived her extensive renovation!

Wisteria at Catherine’s house

Wisteria at Catherine’s house

June in Gourdon. Finally, a quasi-normal month. All travel restrictions were lifted and, within days (hours?) I started encountering Belgian, Dutch, and German speakers at the grocery store. Hearing English doesn’t “count” because many Brits live here year around; it’s not an accurate indicator for tourism. With a flip of the switch, life in Gourdon became festive again, especially on Thursday nights when artists and troubadours performed while strolling in the circular boulevard. We even had a mini-version of the annual Fête de la Musique. It was very exciting to see the streets fill up again and to chat with friends en terrace. Our dachshund Lily even joined us at the cafés and was on her best behavior, a sure sign that she wanted to do her part and support la réouverture des restaurants.

A fabulous strawberry tartlet served on a Distillerie du Périgord placemat. A nod to one of my former suppliers: their Guinettes cherries in liqueur were featured in every Joie de Vivre catalog I published.

A fabulous strawberry tartlet served on a Distillerie du Périgord placemat. A nod to one of my former suppliers: their Guinettes cherries in liqueur were featured in every Joie de Vivre catalog I published.

July around the farm. Rick likes to keep busy around the house and the property. There’s always a field to mow, wood to chop, stone blocks to move… Besides general maintenance, he also likes to tackle one “big” project each year. This time, it was the renovation of the rabbit hutch. The original structure consisted of four stone walls, sitting on a dirt floor, capped with a sad-looking corrugated fiber cement roof. Rick’s goal was to make it larger and taller so it could accommodate a barbecue area and a storage shed for the tractor, trailer, and garden tools. He also wanted to anchor the new roof to the garage wall to construct a carport. After consulting with a local mason, we concluded the old stone walls were so unstable and crumbly that they would need to be dismantled and rebuilt. We opted to have him pour a concrete slab and build new walls with cinder blocks; they would get stuccoed to blend in with the garage and the house. Rick’s contribution was to design and build the roof from scratch. He picked up fir beams and boards that he cut, notched, sanded, treated, stained, and assembled himself. I think he was a carpenter in a previous life. Do I hear the Notre-Dame engineers calling his name?

Rick in his forest… The wooden framework was then covered with clay tiles like the house.

Rick in his forest… The wooden framework was then covered with clay tiles like the house.

August in Payrignac. Many people had to adapt and to rethink the way they work to make ends meet this year. Our favorite local band has continuously reinvented itself over the past 45 years. When I was a teenager, their rendition of French pop songs enlivened many of our Saturday nights. Ten years later, the band repertoire took a hard turn toward Rock n’ Roll. In the early 90s’, they morphed again to showcase –wait for it– musette accordion dance songs. Although that style of music was hugely popular with older French folks, I’m not too sorry I overlooked that phase of their career… Their latest reincarnation: a Mariachi band! When they’re not playing on a Seine cruise, in a hotel in Morocco, or at the Festival des Lumières in Lyon, they bring their charro outfits, sombreros, and instruments to the Payrignac restaurant for the annual Fiesta Mexicaine. I believe this year’s edition was even more successful than the previous one: the chef was no longer attempting to make Mexican food!

Embellished charro pants. ¡Viva Mexico!

Embellished charro pants. ¡Viva Mexico!

September in the Loire. Road trip! One of my cousins lives near Anger and had been begging us to drive up and visit. We had spent some time in the Loire Valley before but had not explored the Maine-et-Loire. I booked a Bed-and-Breakfast in Azay-le-Rideau for a couple of days and it turned out to be the perfect spot to catch some of the sights we had bypassed on previous trips. The lovely chateau sits in the middle of town, with parks and the Indre river nearby. The absence of crowds is the only upside of the pandemic. We toured the chateau at our leisure and it felt remarkably intimate and livable. If Azay is a study in elegance, the Angers castle is quite austere and shows its military origin. The city is full of architectural marvels, from medieval homes to Haussmannian buildings. The Art Deco glass roof at the Galeries Lafayette is magnificent. While staying at my cousins’, we also took several walks along the Maine and Mayenne rivers. Just down from their house, one can reach a section of Eurovelo 6, a 4,450 km-bicycle itinerary that links Saint-Brévin-les-Pins on the Atlantic coast to Constanta on the Black Sea. Something to keep in mind if you’re up to pedaling through ten European countries…

Locks of La Roussière on the Mayenne river

Locks of La Roussière on the Mayenne river

October in Milhac. Fall at the farm comes in different shades of brown: the light brown of walnuts, the medium brown of cèpes mushrooms, the reddish-brown of chestnuts. So, I harvested walnuts, found a few cèpes, and (carefully) picked chestnuts. The problem with chestnuts is that they are so difficult to peel. We went to a chestnut festival and I tasted chestnut cider for the first time: it’s just cider combined with some chestnut liqueur. As luck would have it, you don’t need to peel the chestnuts to make liqueur… I’ll be ready to bottle mine in a couple of weeks. Chestnuts were on the menu again during our monthly hike with other villagers: our walk started through some thick groves, leaves rustling and nuts rolling under our boots. A couple of miles later, we were surrounded by tall ferns and old oak trees. After crossing a stream and reaching a little valley, I paused to admire the perfect little chateau of Milhac: with its ochre walls and russet roof, it stood in complete harmony with the Autumn foliage, the yellow cliff, and the dry corn stalks below.

Château de Milhac

Château de Milhac

November in Gourdon. This was perhaps the strangest month of the year. It was the month that couldn’t decide what to be. One day was clear and balmy, the next was hazy and humid. Cafés were open, then they were closed. Supermarkets could sell books, then they couldn’t. Gift shops started setting up their holiday displays only to lock up that same weekend. In the old Gourdon, the streets were empty again: only a few cats were out and they often wanted in. The second lockdown surprised no one. Although it was not as strict as the first one, it felt more “messy,” uncertain, and paralyzing. After watching the Covid indicators peak, go down, and ultimately plateau at a higher level than Macron’s target, the French decided to get ready for Christmas anyway. Trees were bought and decorations went up. The winning trio of foie gras/smoked salmon/escargots was well stocked in all supermarkets. Oysters were everywhere and we’re not even close to the coast. With restaurants not opening before January 20 at the earliest, food stores bet that we would buy even more holiday-type food to eat at home. City Hall encouraged people to decorate their doors and windows with home-made decorations. The usual garlands of lights were strung in the streets and around lamp posts. Wooden reindeers, a present-loaded sleigh, and a snowy chalet magically appeared by the gazebo overnight. The town might have looked as festive as last year but it was hard to take notice: everybody looked inward and the mood was off.

Signs to direct holiday traffic. I didn’t meet any elf or fairy. Maybe they forgot their permission slip?

Signs to direct holiday traffic. I didn’t meet any elf or fairy. Maybe they forgot their permission slip?

December from my office window. In the late 60s, I was fascinated by the Apollo missions and briefly considered becoming an astronaut. I quickly realized that, unlike Valentina Tereshkova or Sally Ride, I wasn’t born in the right country for space travel: persistence would be futile. Nevertheless, I still get excited when rare astronomical events are announced: a bright comet, a full solar eclipse, shooting stars galore… December 21st was the day of the great conjunction when Jupiter and Saturn were closer than they had been since 1623. My binoculars and I were ready to observe what promised to make this Winter solstice memorable. Zut! It turned out to be a cloudy night, a fitting way to conclude a year filled with disappointments. The next afternoon, while finalizing our Christmas menu in my office, I looked up and noticed the dark silhouette of the woods cutting through bands of orange, pink, and purple: it was just past 5pm and the sun was finishing its daily course behind the western hills. Less unusual than a great conjunction but perhaps more satisfying after all because sunsets always remind me of The Little Prince, the first book I ever read. His planet was so tiny, the lucky guy could watch sunsets continuously simply by moving his chair a few steps. He took pleasure in the little things and knew what was essential. Shouldn’t he be an inspiration for us all?

“Allons voir un coucher de soleil…” Le 22 décembre 2020 à 17h29.

“Allons voir un coucher de soleil…” Le 22 décembre 2020 à 17h29.

It’s a wrap! See, it was not such a bad year after all, although I realize we were a lot more fortunate than many, many people. Out with the old, in with the new! I wish you all an annus mirabilis for 2021.

Vocabulary
Dans le retro:
in the rearview mirror
Annus horribilis: (latin) horrible year
Une année merdique: a shitty year
Le département: county
La prefecture: administrative center
La carte de séjour: resident card
La halle aux grains: covered grain market
Le chocolat chaud: hot cocoa
Les trois oies: the three geese
Le badaud: bystander
Le Certificat d’Études:
primary school completion exam
Le lavoir: wash house
Le muguet: lily of the valley
Le coquelicot: poppy
La glycine: wisteria
En terrace: at a café, outdoors
La réouverture: reopening
Zut: yikes, drat
Annus mirabilis: (latin) wonderful year

To feed your dreams of France and plan your next trip, please consider buying a copy of my book Moments Parfaits in Paris, where you’ll explore every arrondissement through forty photographs and essays. Hint: it’s also a thoughtful gift for this dear Francophile friend of yours… When you purchase the book, I will mail you a signed bookmark from France and stamp your envelope with this stunning timbre Trésors de Notre-Dame. Merci! Your support helps me maintain this blog.

Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Notre-Dame stamp!

Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Notre-Dame stamp!

In Roots, Haunts Tags France, Southwest France, Dordogne, Gourdon, Sarlat, California, Covid, Coronavirus
2 Comments
2CV 6 Special

DRIVING MISS JEANNETTE

November 24, 2020

Don’t we all wish we could embark on a road trip? If you’re living in the US, you’re probably (and wisely) eschewing any travel this week and inventing new ways to give thanks. If you’re in France –and in many other countries around the world– you’ve been stuck at home, not being allowed to venture beyond a 1 km radius from your domicile. How do we keep our sanity? Perhaps I can entice you to follow me: step into a vintage 2 CV for un petit tour on country roads along the Dordogne river? En voiture, Simone!

The cutest French car ever: la deudeuche!

The cutest French car ever: la deudeuche!

After winning a photography contest organized by the département du Lot, I was over the moon when the prize was revealed: a half-day rental of a 2 CV! I rode in the back (and in the trunk!) of a 2 CV many times when I was growing up but never had the opportunity to actually drive one. My friend Raegan was set to visit us in September last year and I decided to schedule this little adventure so she could join in. The three of us rode to Blanat, near Rocamadour, where we met Benoit, the manager of Roc N’Roule. After filling in some paperwork, we were introduced to Jeannette, a beautiful Azure 2 CV6 Special! She would be mine for the whole afternoon.

Miss Jeannette takes a break in a quaint village along the way

Miss Jeannette takes a break in a quaint village along the way

It didn’t take me long to get reacquainted with the dash-mounted gear shift and it “cue ball” style knob: when I learned to drive, my mother had a Citroën Ami 6 equipped with the same style of manual transmission. As soon as I turned the ignition on, the familiar engine sound filled our ears. Loudly. It’s a very distinctive sound, one that never leaves your memory. Just as you can always tell when someone is riding a Harley-Davidson, you know when a 2 CV is driving by, without even seeing it. Overall, it was an easy driving experience. I just needed to remember that those cars were built before power-steering (a few biceps curls might help) and power brakes (anticipate!) The clutch felt a lot different from the one on the Citroën I’m currently driving but I’m proud to report I only stalled the engine twice. I “may” have flooded the engine after stopping to gas the car but my two witnesses have been sworn to secrecy…

The 2 CV dashboard: a prowess in minimalism

The 2 CV dashboard: a prowess in minimalism

We picked an itinerary that would include mostly country roads, quaint villages, and opportunities to follow the Dordogne river. We stopped briefly along the way but the whole point of the afternoon was to drive and ride in the car, not to walk and tour churches or châteaux. Creysse, Gluges, St Denis-lès-Martel, and Carennac all deserve dedicated visits.

First time in Creysse: a (small) river runs through it. Actually, it meanders and loops around. Dotted with numerous stone bridges,  the village looks like it is sitting in the middle of canals.

First time in Creysse: a (small) river runs through it. Actually, it meanders and loops around. Dotted with numerous stone bridges, the village looks like it is sitting in the middle of canals.

I was glad the tourist season was over so we could proceed at a leisurely pace. The drive along the Dordogne is sinuous; narrow roads were carved in the cliff; passing, or being passed, is pretty much out of the question. The danger here is not to get a speeding ticket but to be surprised by incoming traffic and have to slam on the brakes.

Driving miss Jeannette, a vintage 2CV, along the Dordogne river.

It helps that a 2 CV has only one pace and that’s pas très vite. I don’t think I could have pushed the car to more than 70 km/h, even if I had tried to. The upside is that you can almost make eye contact with grazing livestock when you drive 30 mph.

You’re likely to spot flocks of sheep and tribes of goats grazing on le Causse de Rocamadour

You’re likely to spot flocks of sheep and tribes of goats grazing on le Causse de Rocamadour

When we crossed the river on Pont Miret near Floirac, I brought my speed down to under 20 mph. This 140-meter long suspension bridge was built in 1912 and a decree specified it could be used by either one loaded car, two empty ones, or no more than five cows at a time. The cables looked sturdy enough and the wood ties seemed to be in decent shape. I just read the bridge is currently closed to “rejuvenate” the planking… Ouf!

Jeannette, a vintage 2CV, crosses old Pont Miret over the Dordogne river. Built in 1912, suspension bridge, 800 wood planks.

Sadly, the weather was mostly overcast and a bit rainy. We didn’t get the chance to ride with the top down (yes, the 2 CV is the ultimate proletarian convertible!)  On the other hand, I had several opportunities to put the midget windshield wipers into action and to use the flip-up windows, mostly to defog the windshield.

Driving miss Jeannette, a vintage 2CV, in the rain. Tiny (but mighty?) windshield wipers...

The afternoon went by too fast and I was a little bit sad to take Jeannette back home. If I were mechanically inclined, I would consider having a 2 CV of my own. Rick doesn’t quite share my excitement but, of course, he grew up with les belles américaines. Different strokes for different folks or, as we say here, à chacun ses goûts. You may recall that I previously published a photographic homage to the 2CV, an easy task since the beloved car is still commonly used in rural France: I usually spot one just about every time I drive to town and it always brings a smile to my face. Maybe I’ll run into lovely Jeannette again sometime…

A 1949 gray 2 CV (with the top down!) and a 1980 Charleston racing along the Dordogne river…

A 1949 gray 2 CV (with the top down!) and a 1980 Charleston racing along the Dordogne river…

Vocabulary
Un petit tour:
a short ride
En voiture, Simone: giddy up
Le département: county
Pas très vite: not very fast
Ouf: phew
Les belles américaines: beautiful American cars, usually classics from the 50s-60s
A chacun ses goûts: to each his own

To feed your dreams of Paris and plan your next trip, please consider buying a copy of my book Moments Parfaits in Paris, where you’ll explore every arrondissement through forty photographs and essays. Hint: it’s also a thoughtful holiday gift for this dear Francophile friend of yours… When you purchase the book, I will mail you a signed bookmark from France and stamp your envelope with this stunning timbre Trésors de Notre-Dame. If you are interested in buying French commemorative stamps, check my selection. Merci! Your support helps me maintain this blog.

Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Notre-Dame stamp!

Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Notre-Dame stamp!

In Flicks, Haunts Tags France, Rural France, Lot, Dordogne, Vintage cars, Car trip, 2 CV, Citroen
10 Comments
La Promenade in Gourdon

SILVER LININGS

November 10, 2020

Who would not want to wear rose-colored glasses these days? Nine months into this pandemic, the virus continues to create chaos, our lives are still in limbo, and we still can’t see the proverbial light at the end of the tunnel. Although France successfully flattened the curve through a strict confinement last spring, the number of infections rose exponentially after the summer vacations. After enacting curfews in large cities for a couple of weeks in October, the French government ordered another lockdown: it seems to be the only way to contain the virus propagation before all ICU beds are filled with Covid patients. Winter is coming and there will be tough months ahead.

Blessed are the dogs who know nothing about the nasty virus. Here is Lily surveying the edge of our woods. For her, life is as normal as ever. April 2020.

Blessed are the dogs who know nothing about the nasty virus. Here is Lily surveying the edge of our woods. For her, life is as normal as ever. April 2020.

To shake off the blues, I binge-watched the Netflix series Emily in Paris and I was almost shocked to realize that everything looked so normal, except for her positively palatial chambre de bonne. How refreshing to see Parisians going about their life without face masks, colorful cafés packed with patrons, and fashion shows crowded with attendees close to each other! The first season was filmed in the second half of 2019 and the showrunners may have to wait a year or two before Emily can return to her charmed life in the City of Light. Since nobody needs to read a whiny post about the disruption and distress caused by the virus, I decided to showcase some of the positive things that I’ve observed over the past few months. Join me for a feel-good visual tour!

A very familiar sight for Emily’s fans: this hotel –and its fantastic glass and iron marquise– stands across from her office. November 2018.

A very familiar sight for Emily’s fans: this hotel –and its fantastic glass and iron marquise– stands across from her office. November 2018.

Everybody knows how to REALLY wash their hands now
Next time someone greets you with a handshake –whenever that might happen– you will no doubt appreciate that our collective hygiene standards have substantially improved. Sales of Marseille soap have gone through the roof. Ah! It may just compensate for the disappearing use of lipstick.

But, but, but… where is the hand sanitizer? Photographed at Musée Rodin, October 2010.

But, but, but… where is the hand sanitizer? Photographed at Musée Rodin, October 2010.

Fashion is dead, long live fashion
On March 25th, my mother asked her sister-in-law to sew a cloth mask for her: it had to be maroon to match her purse and shoes! If an 88-year-old woman cared that much about the color of her mask, it was inevitable that face coverings would become the next hot fashion accessory. Predictably, the latest sartorial trend was in full display during Fashion Week last month. Of course, fashion houses will have to peddle many, many designer masks to make up for lackluster sales in other categories. I predict that, next year, all models will walk the runways wearing black leggings and fancy Zoom shirts, blouses, or jackets.

How about a stunning embroidered jacket for your next Zoom call? Spotted on rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, October 2016.

How about a stunning embroidered jacket for your next Zoom call? Spotted on rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, October 2016.

Thinking locally
In the early days of the pandemic, I kept waiting for signs of coordinated action, at least at the European level; I was dismayed when the EU hardly lifted a finger to help Italy. In my opinion, the French government’s efforts to blunt the economic impact were solid: massive layoffs were avoided, at least initially. Most of all, it warmed my heart to witness so many displays of solidarity at the local level. Cities and villages got quickly organized to check on elderly and vulnerable people, running errands or picking up medicines for them. We supported farmers who set up distribution points for local produce. We ordered take-out food from restaurants who had never offered such service before (check this post to see what one of my local “take-out” meals looked like.) And, of course, we collectively made cloth masks for the whole village in March, at a time when disposable ones were not available to the general public.

It takes a village, and detailed instructions… April 2020.

It takes a village, and detailed instructions… April 2020.

Small is beautiful
Les spectacles vivants like theater, dance, music, sports were all but canceled. Some large productions found creative ways to bring their performances in front of an anxious public during the spring lockdown, either on their websites or through French TV. By summer, many artists were later able to resume their shows albeit on a much smaller scale. Musicians were quite active indeed: they often set up by the terrace of local restaurants so we could safely enjoy a good meal and a concert. The city of Gourdon closed the circular boulevard to car traffic and organized street entertainment every Thursday evening; it could be used as a stage for a large swath of entertainers including Brazilian dancers, clowns, magicians, storytellers, and more.   

La Bedoune performing en terrace at the Hostellerie de Goujounac, August 2020.

La Bedoune performing en terrace at the Hostellerie de Goujounac, August 2020.

Everyone is an artist
Social media is often decried but it enabled everybody, famous or not, talented or not, to showcase their artistic endeavors: playing the cello on a balcony, dancing Swan Lake in a bathtub, building action figures with toilet rolls and chips packets… Perhaps my favorite series was the Getty Museum Challenge that prompted humorous recreations of famous paintings avec les moyens du bord. Rick was a good sport and indulged me when I staged him as my very own Lapin Agile.

A favorite painting and my favorite guy. June 2020.

A favorite painting and my favorite guy. June 2020.

The Call of the Wild
City dwellers were forced to reevaluate the value of their lodging choices: small (and expensive) quarters may be fine when restaurants, museums, and parks are waiting to welcome you but will feel unbearable when a whole family has to share 700 square feet, 23 hours a day, for 55 consecutive days. Parisians who were lucky enough to own a second home in the country quickly exited the city to settle into their résidence secondaire, as long as WiFi coverage was decent enough. It may or may not be a long-term exodus: only time will tell. But, based on my conversations with local agents, the real estate market here is very lively and they just don’t have enough properties to offer. Many French rural areas that saw their population dwindle during the past few decades will enthusiastically welcome a fresh influx of younger working professionals.

Too late! This medieval timbered house in old Gourdon sold in June…

Too late! This medieval timbered house in old Gourdon sold in June…

Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose
You’ve got to love the French who were nevertheless making plans for their vacations while the epidemic was raging in April: les vacances sont sacrées! They mostly chose to stay in France (not that there was much of a choice…) and headed out to la montagne, la campagne, or la plage. For those who opted for the seaside, this was a great opportunity to (re)discover beaches in Northern France and Brittany that are not as popular as those on the Mediterranean. It’s clear that the French are in no mood to sacrifice their vacations –even during a pandemic– but it’s nice to see tourism money sprinkled all over the country.  

The French do love the beach! Avoid July and August to “enjoy” more social distancing. Piémanson, in the Camargue area. October 2017.

The French do love the beach! Avoid July and August to “enjoy” more social distancing. Piémanson, in the Camargue area. October 2017.

Bicycle kick
Trying to avoid mass transportation, city dwellers are rediscovering the many health benefits of riding bicycles: physical distancing AND exercise! Paris and other large cities are encouraging this trend and adding bike lanes. In many regions, substantial subsidies are in place as incentives to purchase electric bicycles (we bought a couple of them and our net cost was 20% of MSRP.) Although bicycle use helps lower pollution indexes, I suspect many riders will flock to buses or the métro as soon as the weather turns nasty. In related news, sales of gas-thirsty converted vans and campers are through the roof, with a 6 to 10-months wait until delivery of a new vehicle. Win some, lose some…

We love our new electric bikes! Payrignac, October 2020.

We love our new electric bikes! Payrignac, October 2020.

Nouveaux maux, nouveaux mots
New words are invented all the time and merely reflect new technologies and human activities. Old words that we didn’t even know suddenly invade our everyday conversations. By now, everybody knows about nose swabs (écouvillons) and N95 masks (masques FFP2). We practice social distancing (distanciation sociale) to avoid superspreaders (super propagateurs). We wear our Zoom shirt (chemise visio) while holding videoconferences (visio conférences) with colleagues. And when it’s 5 o’clock somewhere, we can toast our friends with a Skype apéro or a coronapéro. Unlike George Orwell’s Newspeak in 1984, this novlangue doesn’t aim to suppress individual thinking; it just underlines that we all share the same concerns, at the same moment.

France is a divided country: are you Rosé or Ricard? Chez moi, August 2020.

France is a divided country: are you Rosé or Ricard? Chez moi, August 2020.

A new way to travel?
For some lucky travelers, the pandemic offered a rare chance to explore popular locations without the usual crush of tourists; for the majority of us, it meant cancellations galore. 2020 will be remembered as the epitome of armchair travel. Thanks to Facebook, YouTube, and other apps, I’ve enjoyed virtual tours to many destinations, old and new. Whether filmed by locals or professional tour guides, these videos keep me in the travel loop: exploring, learning, dreaming. Perhaps they even force me to see more of the world, not less; to watch with more intent and wonderment; and to select my future destinations with more insight and desire. Who knows what next year has in store for me. The good all USA remain high on my list, of course. Vietnam was booked, canceled, postponed; perhaps on track for late 2021. And the light of Venice still haunts me: I must return. Besides, I hear La Serenissima has a fantastic selection of beautiful masks…

 Where will you be going next?

It takes a city, and centuries of craftsmanship. Venice, October 2019.

It takes a city, and centuries of craftsmanship. Venice, October 2019.

Vocabulary
Le confinement:
lock-down
La chambre de bonne: maid’s quarters (usually a tiny bedroom under Parisian rooftops)
Le spectacle vivant: live show (performing arts)
Avec les moyens du bord: lit. with the means at hand; with what we have on hand
La residence secondaire: country home
Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose: the more it changes, the more it stays the same
Les vacances sont sacrées:
vacations are sacred
La montagne:
the mountains
La campagne:
the countryside
La plage:
the beach
Nouveaux maux, nouveaux mots:
new ailments, new words

To feed your dreams of Paris and plan your next trip, please consider buying a copy of my book Moments Parfaits in Paris, where you’ll explore every arrondissement through forty photographs and essays. Hint: it’s also a thoughtful holiday gift for this dear Francophile friend of yours… When you purchase the book, I will mail you a signed bookmark from France and stamp your envelope with this stunning timbre Trésors de Notre-Dame. Merci! Your support helps me maintain this blog.

Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Notre-Dame stamp!

Buy a copy of Moments Parfaits in Paris: I'll mail you (from France) a signed bookmark in an envelope bearing this collectible Trésors de Notre-Dame stamp!

In Roots Tags Coronavirus, Confinement, Gourdon, Paris, France
4 Comments
Fete de la Musique a Gourdon

LA FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE

June 23, 2020

La Fête de la Musique was officially created in France in 1982. It’s now celebrated all over the world, every year, on June 21st. Cities typically organize large concerts headlined by well-known professional singers and groups. In smaller towns like ours, local bands and amateurs showcase their talent in an assortment of venues.
This year’s edition had to adapt to a new reality: a virus that was tamed but still lurking. It’s clear that, in Paris and a few other areas, revelers quickly forgot that social distancing was still de rigueur… I have to give high marks to Gourdon for finding a good compromise: all bands performed outdoors, at a safe distance from restaurant diners along the circular boulevard. People were either sitting down at tables or walking about in small groups, enjoying a wide selection of musical styles from jazz to rock-and-roll. It probably helped that the event took place before European tourists were allowed to cross our borders.

The best moment for me was a sensational performance by Panderovox, a local group of polyphonic singers and percussionists who specialize in traditional songs from Mediterranean and Eastern European countries. They performed in the courtyard of the 15th Century Maison du Sénéchal. Always a treat!

In Flicks, Roots Tags France, Rural France, Gourdon, Lot, Festivals, Musique, Fete de la musique
Comment

FIRST OUTING...

May 22, 2020

... after the end of our strict confinement. We can now travel within a 100 km radius. Eyrignac et ses jardins are located a mere 17 miles from our house. For the first time in 35 years, they were closed because of the lockdown but they just reopened last week. It's such a beautiful, serene place and the gardens are "magnifiques". Perfect weather and it was a real pleasure to explore the property with so few visitors.

Vocabulary
Magnifique:
magnificent

In Flicks, Haunts Tags France, Rural France, Dordogne, Gardens, Confinement
2 Comments
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  • July 2021
    • Jul 13, 2021 SERENDIPITY Jul 13, 2021
  • April 2021
    • Apr 27, 2021 LAUNDRY DAY IN BURANO Apr 27, 2021
  • March 2021
    • Mar 30, 2021 PARIS AU RALENTI-CONTINUED Mar 30, 2021
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  • January 2021
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  • December 2020
    • Dec 29, 2020 2020 DANS LE RÉTRO Dec 29, 2020
  • November 2020
    • Nov 24, 2020 DRIVING MISS JEANNETTE Nov 24, 2020
    • Nov 10, 2020 SILVER LININGS Nov 10, 2020
  • June 2020
    • Jun 23, 2020 LA FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE Jun 23, 2020
  • May 2020
    • May 22, 2020 FIRST OUTING... May 22, 2020
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    • Apr 7, 2020 JOURNAL D'UNE CONFINÉE - WEEK 3 Apr 7, 2020
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    • Apr 9, 2019 VENI, VIDI, VAN GOGH Apr 9, 2019
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    • Dec 11, 2018 DEMOLITION Dec 11, 2018
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    • Oct 2, 2018 LA DEUCHE Oct 2, 2018
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    • Sep 18, 2018 A PLUM LIFE Sep 18, 2018
    • Sep 11, 2018 TRAVELS WITH LILY Sep 11, 2018
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    • Jan 2, 2018 LES VOLETS Jan 2, 2018
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    • Dec 19, 2017 CANDIED MEYER LEMON STRIPS Dec 19, 2017
    • Dec 12, 2017 SUPERCALIFRAGILISTIC Dec 12, 2017
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    • May 18, 2017 ON A WING AND A PRAYER May 18, 2017
    • May 6, 2017 P'TIT DEJ' May 6, 2017
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    • Apr 6, 2017 PAULA WOLFERT Apr 6, 2017
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    • Mar 9, 2017 TIME TRAVEL Mar 9, 2017
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    • Feb 23, 2017 LOST IN ALMOND LAND Feb 23, 2017
    • Feb 11, 2017 THE CAT AND THE POT Feb 11, 2017
    • Feb 2, 2017 NIGHT WALK Feb 2, 2017
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